Heeley Iris De Nuit

Stretches out the facets of Iris: dry, woody, warm, powdery, violety, carroty, metallic. Translucent reference iris

****

The Different Company Sel de Vetiver

Slightly translucent and sparkling vetiver, but tinted earth and salt. Magnificent

*****

Houbigant Orangers en Fleurs

Delicious & lush orange blossom-jasmine-tuberose combo. Almost edible. White floral lovers must sniff it!

****

Atelier Cologne Vetiver Fatal

Bright citrus opening over a soft Vetiver note, with a fabulously earthy and animalic drydown. Surprising

****

Salvador Dalí Dalissime

Super-juicy cocktail of apricot, peach & various alcohols. Dusty iris powder lays at the bottom of the glass

***

Salvador Dalí Rubylips

Outstanding plastic gummy fruit opening that quickly peters out to nothing more than a vague floral. Sad Lips

***

Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine

Freshly squeezed orange and tangerine, with the tiny cells floating around. Fantastical photorealism

*****

Christian Dior J’Adore L’Or

The biting fresh florals of J’Adore draped in golden oriental notes & vanilla. Warmer and more luxurious

****

Cartier Declaration

Incredibly translucent woody number with hints of rose and spice. Whilst very wearable, it's still unremarkable.

***

Ormonde Jayne Tsarina

The smell of a classic, powdery floral caught on expensive furs and big jewels. As opulent as a floral can get

****

Robert Piguet Jeunesse

Gigantic photorealistic fruit; the skin, juice, pulp & pith. Delicious yet wearable. James and the Giant Peach

****

Andree Putman Preparation Parfumee

Sea air, pepper, and dry woods with a watery, distant, lilac-like surround. Floaty and ethereal.

*****

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire Pour Homme

A masculine rose dusted in cinnamon and spice. Feels a little bit flat. Butch Rose

***

Hermes Jour d'Hermes

Illusionist Jean-Claude Ellena's most radiant, luminous floral bouquet. Full of space, light, and intrigue.

*****

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire Pour Femme

Nicely balanced rose & patch scent with a gothic tinge of waxy narcissus. Potent Rose ***

EC2 by BEX London

Gin, tonic, lime, vetiver, shattered glass, dust, and wet concrete. It really does smell of the city.

****

Robert Piguet Petit Fracas

Dials down the diva of the original with fresh fruit but remains brash with white florals & chocolate. Yum *****

SE1 by BEX London

Great seabreeze and driftwood note, with soft spices and vetiver.

****

Angela Flanders Aqua Alba

Whisky inspired scent, slightly peaty, dirty sweet amber and incredible smokiness. Still soft and sexy, too.

*****

Guerlain Mitsouko

Fermented peaches and musty old moss. The golden light of bergamot illuminates the cruel face of faded beauty

*****

Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme 2012

Interesting dichotomy of fuzzy fruit & sharp green notes leads to pretty bog-standard marshmallow fluff

***

Lorenzo Villoresi Aura Maris

Sparkling citrus over sea air, with green-tinged animalic narcissus. Who knew we needed another aquatic!

****

Nu_be Perfume Hydrogen

Quinine rich tonic water. Clarity, brightness, fizz and air.

 *****

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Few perfumes instantly transport in a time travel way: this one takes you to a 1940s dressing table. Fab

****

L'Artisan Parfumeur Thé Pour un Eté

A floaty, translucent Jasmine tea scent, with a bright but soft mint-citrus opening. Perfection!

*****

Estée Lauder Very Estée

Wan woody floral thing lacking in interest and presence. Should be renamed "very dull"

**

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte

The brilliant white light of original AU but warmer, richer, more floral and vanillic

****

Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl

Pinkified and reformulated in recent years, this used to be a competent tea floral. Now too pointy. Sad.

**

Smell Bent Little Miss Panda Gets Lei’d

Miss Panda, dripping in honey wears a lei of tropical flowers hoping that Mr Panda ‘wants some’

***

Angela Flanders Artillery Collection No. 4 Vetivert

A must sniff for any lover of vetiver: bright citrus to dry smoky earthy woods. Unf

****

Guerlain Iris Ganache

Silvery, powdered iris folded into delicious vanilla-tinged white chocolate. Settles on pillowy amber & vanilla

****

Aramis Gentleman

Typically fresh opening, but wait, there's more: soft spices & woodsy notes. Olfactory equivalent of a good suit.

****

Melina Ehrsam Honey Lips Kiss Macaron Au Cassis

Fruity nectarine heavy start, with clear white florals & delicious gourmand base. Cute.

***

Tableau de Parfums Loretta

Tauer’s take on the 80s tuberose, rich and resinous with the smell of hot machinery. Steampunk Tuberose

*****

Belinda Brown Blessings Red

A perfume that smells like happiness in a bottle. Reminiscent of something from the 70s?

****

Smell Bent Commando

Triple X rated musk rounded off by vanilla and sweet tonka. Surprisingly transparent and wearable. Over 18s only

****

Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay

Smells of neither, but that doesn't matter! A refreshing, lively cologne that smells 'green' and lovely.

****

Armani Code Ultimate

Rehash of the original with a gold cap. Slightly richer. Fine if you like that sort of thing & "bling".

**

Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire

Gardenia seen through gauze & melted into a pot of coffee, fruit, tobacco, vanilla & rum. Troubled beauty

****

Christian Dior Grand Bal

A big, buxom beauty of a jasmine shimmering with golden sandalwood and creamy musk. Vintage Dior Bottled

*****

L'Artisan Parfumeur Aedes de Venustas

Deliciously smoky woody incense, with a fruity tanginess. Easily better than Aedes "own".

****

Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascese

A big smoky hit, bit like wearing Lapsang Souchong. Would prefer this as a home fragrance.

**

By Kilian Beyond Love

An entire tuberose in bloom - from the roots to the petals. Fleshy, green and almost vegetal. Euphoric Flower

*****

Stiedl Paper Passion

How do you critique a perfume that smells exactly as described? Like a nice fresh paperback. I prefer textbooks.

****

Balenciaga Florabotanica

Plastic fruity rose-green-musk thing. So sad, because it has a kickass bottle and Paris was wonderful.

**

Prada Luna Rossa

Surprising minty aquatic! Interesting twist on the sports theme and probably the best sport scent this year. S'not bad

***

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto

Bogstandard warm, creamy floral with an odd marzipan vibe to add interest. YSL gets a "could do better"

***

Smell Bent Chilli Vanilli

Straight up vanilla & cinnamon with a baked vibe & hints of stewed fruit. Everything should smell like this

****

Parfums Nicolaï Musc Intense

Not really musky or intense, just a gorgeous fruity, powdery, lightly sweet comfort blanket to wrap up in.

****

Parfumerie Generale Djhenné

Astringent mint-lavender start segues to myrrh, cocoa, wheat & woody leather. Deliciously bitter & sweet.

*****