Saturday, 22 September 2012

Smell Bent Violet Tendencies

Earthy violets wrapped in plastic and tied with a leather bow. Weird and cruel in equal measure

****

Ulrich Lang NY Lightspace

Sometimes you just need something light, uncomplicated and beautiful. This iris based perfume is it! Wonderful

****

Balmain Carbone

Very pleasant masculine: fresh violet leaf, translucent woody, rich incense & resin notes. Wouldn't kick him out of bed

****

Sunday, 16 September 2012

4160Tuesdays Above The Chocolate Shop

Rum-like, pastry, chocolate chips and lots of buttery sweetness. So delicious it hurts.

*****

Christian Dior Patchouli Imperial

A fuzzy, snuggly patchouli with an almost luxurious texture. Not a hippie in sight, unfortunately

***

Tauer Parfums Loretta

Tuberose is a central note , but it doesn't smell obviously of that: deep, rich, mysterious and disquietning

****

Clinique Aromatics Elixir

Spicy patchouli wonder, diffuses like a nuke, but utterly fabulous stuff.

*****

Dita Von Teese Eau de Parfum

A classic old-school floral patchouli that's as heartbreakingly glam as its namesake. A truly classy bird

****

Ramon Monegal Cuirelle

A soft, velvety leather, gently boozy with vanilla. Wraps you in a cosy cocoon for autumn. Just add cashmere!

****

Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Homme

Glorious orange blossom on steroids, awash with lavender, cedar and amber. Amazing stuff

*****

Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel

Salty, green, vaguely medicinal, outdoorsy, other worldly cologne - subtle spice and wood at the end. Fab

*****

Maison Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Femme

Seems unfair to restrict this beautiful orange blossom to the ladies. Cedar & musks extend it.

****

Lady Gaga Fame

Bogstandard syrupy, fruity floral mess of no real significance. “Black soul of fame” - my arse. Oh Gaga, we trusted you

**

Chanel Eau de Cologne

All the usual cologne ingredients mixed in perfect balance. Expensive and fleeting but a beautiful experience.

*****

Serge Lutens Sa Majesté La Rose

A must for rose lovers : sparkling and crisp with hints of green, veering into tea rose territory.

*****

Lancôme La Vie Est Belle

A delicious edible iris: powdery florals, vanilla and praline. Refined, well executed and feminine.

****

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Deliciously sweet, translucent benzoin-vanilla heavy amber accord on the dry salty ambergris base. Oooh!

****

Justin Bieber Girlfriend

If my ‘girlfriend’ smelled like this she would be dumped quicker than she could say “Baby, baby oh”

*

Escentric Molecules Molecule 03

Soft, clear, transparent & fascinating: vetiveryl acetate sure smells wonderful. Still, it ain't perfume.

**

Thierry Mugler Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir

Velvet soft rendition of the mad breaded fig scent. Luxurious with hints of leather & labdanum

*****

Profumum Roma Acqua di Sale

Scent of sea water and lemonade. A wonderful aquatic!

****

Le Labo Iris 39

Earthy, 'in your face' iris: deep, diffusive, haunting rather than pretty. Becomes lavatorial (civet) after 3 hrs. Fab

****

Monday, 13 August 2012

Aedes de Venustas Eau de Parfum

Rhubarb and custards, for hours. Drydown is earthier & drier, but still calls to mind boiled sweets.

***

Christian Dior Oud Ispahan

Deliciously fruity and jammy rose woven into a sinful, skank-filled oud with less than polite intentions.

****

L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzonghka

Vegetal capsicum note surrounded by smoky tea and dry, cold incense and woods. Crisp. Bemusing.

****

Chanel Coco Noir

Perfumes, like wives, suffer when they are compared! Misnamed, but if you don't think of the original a good floriental

***

Czech & Speake Cuba

Starts as a mojito, transforms to bay rum, then to smoky cigars. Is the idea a holiday in a bottle? Good fun.

***

Chanel Nº22

Aldehyde H-bomb releases a cocktail of syrupy white flowers, incense & soft, velvety vanilla. Refined yet audacious

*****

Miller Harris Geranium Bourbon

Little known gem that would smell great on a man or woman: geranium then rose then soft wood. Tres chic.

****

Marc Jacobs Dot

Another unexciting fruity floral with somewhat creamy base. Bright, fizzy pear-coconut-somethingorother. "Kitsch" bottle.

**

Salvador Dalí Laguna

Fizzy fruit and powdery flowers drenched in plastic, coconutty aquatic oddness. I find it compelling. Weird Beach

 ****

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Momentary fizz leads into a thick creamy vanilla-white floral. Nice texture but ultimately very same-y.

***

Mona Di Orio Rose Etoile de Hollande

A raspberry-sweet opening then seems to lose its way. Pity, rest of Les Nombres d'Or line phenomenal

**

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis

Brilliant white light: sparkling, effervescent citrus over muguet-white florals. Resplendent

*****

Sunday, 22 July 2012

Rochas Tocade

Lemon, rose and vanilla. What's not to love?

****

Donna Karan Cashmere Mist Pearl Essence

Bottle looks like it may hold children's glue. Juice smells faintly of musk. Really, why bother?

*

D'Orsay Tilleul

A beautiful, transient, hyper real linden blossom on the breeze. Giacobetti has distant blossoms down perfectly.

****

Thierry Mugler Alien Essence Absolue

The ultimate version of Alien with extra flowers, some powder & an awesome velvety vanilla base

*****

Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame

Over reliance on ambroxan is a bit like putting ketchup on everything you eat; tasty but drowns out all else.

***

Tuesday, 17 July 2012

Parfumerie Generale Psychotrope

A lemon submerged in a swimming pool, inside a very expensive leather handbag. Batshit crazy.

*****

Salvador Dali Dali

Pretty decent 80s aldehydic floral with a rich golden quality. Lacks that certain something to make it distinct

***

Amouage Interlude Woman

A whole new kind of chypre with coffee, woods, honeyed flowers, benzoin & a neon streak of kiwi. Fascinating

*****

E Coudray Iris Rose

Soft, papery, violety, hairspray iris with a spicy pink rose. Very pretty.

***

Sunday, 8 July 2012

Amouage Interlude Man

A bonfire-and-a-half worth of smoke. Burning tar, vanilla & amber, disturbing yet quite delicious. Edible Smoke

*****

Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule

Curiously, not sandalwood writ large (or small). Reminiscent of ginger cake: comforting but not compelling.

***

Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Fizzy green-mandarin & mango softens to floaty floral-honey, into a woody incense trail. Summer bottled.

****

Paco Rabanne Black XS

Death by foam strawberries

*

Tom Ford Santal Blush

Mmmmmm...a gorgeous summer sandalwood - manages to be sheer and ephemeral whilst also sweet and coconutty.

*****

Ralph Lauren Big Pony Collection for her 4

I have smelled more interesting shampoos and body lotions. Avoid focus group scents like these.

*

Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore

Huge, spicy, warm and coconutty: the sandalwood fades in and out. Smells equally good sprayed on clothes.

****